British climber summits Everest for record 20th time

Kathmandu, Nepal: British climber Kenton Cool reached the top of Mount Everest for the 20th time Friday, extending his own record for the most ascents of the world's highest peak by a non-Nepali.

More than 600 climbers have reached the peak since the spring season summits kicked off this month, taking advantage of a brief spell of good weather and typically calmer winds.

"It was reported that he summited Mt Everest today early morning," Khim Lal Gautam, a government official at the base camp, told AFP.

Mountain guide Cool, 52, first climbed Everest in 2004 and has since had an expedition almost every year, taking clients up the 8,849-metre (29,032-foot) peak.

His 15th summit in 2021 tied him with American Dave Hahn for the most ascents by a non-Nepali climber, and his effort the following year gave him a solo title.

Cool was once told he would not be able to walk unaided again after a rock-climbing accident in 1996 that broke both his heel bones.

He told AFP in a 2022 interview after his 16th ascent that his Everest record was "not that amazing" in the context of achievements by Nepali climbers.

At least seven Nepali climbers have more than 20 summits under their belt.

"I'm really surprised by the interest... considering that so many of the Sherpas have so many more ascents," he said then.

Nepali climber Kami Rita Sherpa, 56, dubbed the "Everest Man", broke his own world record with a 32nd summit of Everest on Sunday.

Lhakpa Sherpa, 52, also broke her own women's record with her 11th summit the same day.

Nepal has issued a record 492 permits to mountaineers this season and a city of tents hosting foreign climbers and support staff has been set up at the foot of Everest.

The high numbers have rekindled concerns about overcrowding on the mountain, especially if poor weather shortens the climbing window.

On Wednesday, an estimated 275 people reached the summit in a record busiest day on the southern face of the peak.