This photo shows jewellery made from natural Baltic amber, on sale at an amber shop on Mariacka Street in Gdansk, Poland on March 10, 2026. (Photo by Wojtek RADWANSKI / AFP)
Gdansk, Poland: Long coveted for its golden colour, scientific value and alleged healing properties, young Polish jewellers are transforming ancient amber into trendy pieces for the contemporary consumer.
Designers working with the translucent fossil are combining traditional tools like drills, sanders, blasters and power saws with state-of-the-art technology at the Academy of Fine Arts in Gdansk, a city on Poland's Baltic Coast known as the global amber capital.
This photo shows jewellery made from natural Baltic amber, on sale at an amber shop on Mariacka Street in Gdansk, Poland (Photo by Wojtek RADWANSKI / AFP)
In virtual reality studios, students use their screens to silently assemble objects that spin, whirl and twist, and may one day become a new generation of prized jewellery.
Zuzanna Franczak - assistant instructor at the Experimental Design Studio, presents how to design jewellery with use of Virtual Reality technology at the Academy of Fine Arts in Gdansk, Poland (Photo by Wojtek RADWANSKI / AFP)
"From the very start, we learn the complete processes (of design), how to apply our creativity to them, how to use diverse technologies," student Martyna Golinska, 26, told AFP.
She is particularly drawn to the CNC numerical milling technique, most often used in the aerospace, automotive and medical industries.
'Something new'
For centuries, amber has been associated with traditional patterns which are still used by many local artists and artisans, according to 21-year-old student Dominika Afeltowicz.
But while their old-fashioned "holiday souvenir" appeal endures, "young people are looking for something new", she told AFP.
Zuzanna Franczak - assistant instructor at the Experimental Design Studio, present a ring she designed as a student at the Academy of Fine Arts in Gdansk, Poland (Photo by Wojtek RADWANSKI / AFP)
Budding designers like her must therefore "experiment" and "push the limits", she said.
Relatively malleable, amber lends itself perfectly to experimental design, bending easily to the designer's will.
The delicate material -- whose colours range from dark red to opaque white -- retains its distinct qualities throughout the working process.
"This colour range means you can create similar shapes that each produce... utterly unique effects," said Paulina Smigiel.
Her workshop is led by designer and jewellery artist Slawomir Fijalkowski.
Professor and jewellery designer Slawomir Fijalkowski, head of the Experimental Design Studio on Academy of Fine Arts in Gdansk, poses for the pictures at the Amber Museum in Gdansk, Poland (Photo by Wojtek RADWANSKI / AFP)
"We're opening doors," he said of the classes, adding that he and his students "are learning together the difficult art of constantly forgetting and re-learning".
It is then up to the students to choose their own path, somewhere between "ready-to-wear" design and "haute couture".
Fijalkowski believes they will be ready to work just as well for industry as for art galleries around the world, simply because of the "good design" they represent.
